“Ways of an artist and surfer from Brittany (France)”
First breath, first step, first love.
Such significant happenings in the life a human being.

I took my first steps on a Northern Brittany beach in France, a very long fine sand beach named Le Dossen.I immediately felt deep inside that I belonged there amongst the sand, the ocean and its waves and the seagulls.

That is where I started bodyboarding when 8 to 9 years old, my grand mother conveniently lived right across the beach !  I have always adored this place blessed with wonderful colours at sunset or at any time of the day for that matter: blues mixing with oranges, and waves curling at my feetÉHow could I have not given in to the temptation of drawing and surfing ? That is where my story as an artist and a surfer began.

However I suffered a little incident when only 14. On a stormy day, waves were strong but not that strong to keep me away from going out in the water. A perfect setting for a painting: foamy spot, something ominous came out of this chaotic scenery. I very radically took off on one of the most beautiful and biggest wave of the day, but once at the bottom turn point, I quickly realized that this wave was way stronger and fatter than I had appreciated.

It immediately closed on me while I was trying for a last minute exit. Its fat lip wiped me out in the air and then it was just a big blur the black hole When I opened my eyes, I was crushed against the rocks, head upside down, incapable of moving with a bit of blood running down my face, a torn wetsuit and my board in pieces. Unfortunately, another few big heats were looming out on the horizon and heading straight towards me. I was lucky that the only surfer out that day came to my rescue on time.

I stopped body boarding after that and was even advised by doctors to stop any Òboard sportsÓ for the sake of
my damaged back. The whole world was tumbling down in front of me. For a whole year, I didnÕt surf, but I drew over and over the most beautiful gift I had lostÉthe ocean.

Free man, you shall always cherish the ocean wrote Charles Baudelaire.. I for myself thought I had written the final words to my dearest love affair and had sadly closed one very important chapter of my book of life.

A year went by before my friend Fred rolled into my house saying you must see this crazy stuff I found in a
little nearby shop that sells small boats and I really need your opinion on it.

Inside this little marine workshop, full of buoys, anchors and other sailing artifacts, stood out a beautiful 96 longboard enriched with 3 balsa wood laths. It only had one little ding on one of its rails and most importantly offered great value for money (450 French
Francs if my memory doesnt fail me).

At that very moment Fred said I´ll buy it but I want you to come with me to try it out. I was a bit scared to
stand up on a board again, my fright was still as palpable as my scars. When we got to the river next to my favourite beach Le Dossen, waves were perfect and tiny and the sun was up and shining: a perfect timing for surfing. My friend first caught a wave and then lend me his boardÉwhen I stoop up my first instinct was to walk on it.I immediately thought I´ll be longboarding from now on!!! and went onto buy my first longboard to live my dream.

I am now 33 years old and still surfing, an independent artist looking for a job in the communication field. I´m still surrounded by the same elements: the ocean, the waves, colours and emotions. I would like to invite you in my universe, to search this wave that carries us all, to seek a simple artistic escape, and maybe to confirm and verify what Charles Baudelaire said Free man, you shall always cherish the
ocean.